For the main material, I used three pieces of 4x8 5/8" partical board. You can obtain this medium at Home Depot, Eagle Hardware or Lowes Hardware. I found mine in some dude's backyard in West Richland. Yoink!
As far as design, I ripped off Russ Prince's design, who ripped off Sean Hatfield's design. Im almost 100% certain that Sean Hatfield is a 13 year-old retard. Russ, however, is a genius and had the forsight to steal Hatfield's plans and post them to his page. I shall follow suit.
I think these are good plans, but the arcade machine is huge. Easily one foot larger in each direction than I remembered Ms. Pacman - I wanted my machine to look like Ms. Pacman. It's still very cool, though, and I dig it. Below you can compare the differences between Sean's plans and the ZOOM MACHINE:
The lines in Sean's design were sharp and angular. I rounded many of the edges. Like the rear edges, the marquee / bezel edges and the CP. It made the design less square-dirty 80's-TRON-hospital-homemade-looking.
I was confused by the first page of the Hatfield plans. Do they, or do they not, call for a kick plate on the bottom leading-edge? The answer is unclear. However, I was informed by my girlfriend's dad that if my machine were to be a true piece of furniture it needed a kick plate.
Yes, i wasn't the craftsman in 2004 that I am now (har har). I suggest for your finish that you prime the wood then sand, paint and repeat three times for an optimal finish. I used semi-gloss and was pleased by the results. Texture is ultimately up to the builder's preference.
Hatfield's designs and instructions are exquisitely insane. When you encounter problems and questions just email me: catpainzmcspice@gmail.com
T-Molding... Sean's plans state that you should cut the groove for the T-Molding before you screw the project together. I did not do this. I waited until just before I painted the cab to cut the groove. Either way will work, I'm certain.
As far as the groove itself, many people rent, buy or borrow a router to do the job. It requires a special "T-MOLDING BIT." i've read accounts of people who bought the bit, used it once and returned it later the same day. But the bit may prove difficult to find. I have an affection for French culture so i sprung for a Dremel tool. I paid $30.00 (US) for a tool that came with a Circle Cutting jig and various bits. I also bought a little saw blade that I rigged onto one of the sanding bits. Using the circle cutter as a guide, cutting the T-Molding groove was a breeze.
The Dremel is extremely useful on a project like this. It was well-worth the price. I used it for almost every portion of the build - from cutting the control panel plexi to opening my first two failed rotating TV cases.
A jigsaw is required for parts of the cutting process, but not the entire thing. For long runs use a circular saw. Don't free-hand your cuts. Clamp a long board as a guide along the pencil lines. The saw will not tear up the edges - and if it does slightly, T-Molding or Sanding will fix it. Whereas wavy cuts are signifigantly harder to cover or repair.
Screwing particle board into particle board will result in a flimsy cabinet. The wood is 5/8" and will always split when fastened directly. Always use scrap wood or 90 degree angle irons as joint / elbow support. It will look better and is 100,000 times stronger.
Lastly, construct the base of your arcade machine out of 2x4s. Then screw the big side pieces and back piece into your 2x4 base. Your machine will collapse in on itself if it doesn't have a toobin' 2x4 base.
